England, Day 7
August 29th, 1998 by Jim Clark
What is the deal with the showers in hotels we’ve stayed in so far on this trip? What do the English have against water pressure? The shower in the Red Lion was a joke. I could have poured a glass of water over my head and had a better effect.
The day yesterday started with a drive to Cadbury to see the remains of Cadbury Castle, which is thought to be the location of Camelot of King Arthur legend. When we were planning this trip, I had made a point to see locations that were related to King Arthur because I was really into the legend when I was younger. Cadbury seemed like a good choice.
After a long walk up this rocky, muddy hill we got to a field of cows and cow shit.
The “castle” was no castle at all, but rather a fortification which wasn’t even really there any more. The top of the hill was surrounded by a man-made wall of earth (and possibly stone) which was about four feet high, and was probably a lot taller a thousand years ago. With a little imagination it was easy to picture the fortification as it must have been then. The view of the countryside was incredible, and it was easy to see why that location had been chosen for a military stronghold. It had a very strategic view on all sides.
Next we drove north and west to Glastonbury to visit the ruins of the abbey there.
The destroyed abbey is on the site where Joseph of Arimethea set up his church and Jesus is believed to have gone there with his uncle Joseph when he was a boy. Or something. Anyway, the remains of King Arthur and Queen Guenivere are said to be buried there. It was pretty interesting, visiting the grave and all, and we climbed the Glastonbury Tor and got another spectacular view of the countryside, then walked down the other side of the Tor down to the Chalice Well. It is said that Joseph brought the Holy Grail there and buried it in that well, and the water from the well is supposed to have some magical healing power. Tastes kind of like tap water to me, but I didn’t immediately turn to dust when I drank it, like the dude from Indiana Jones, so I figured it was safe and filled a little bottle from the well.
The drive north through Bristol was a bloody nightmare. All the signs to leave the city led to closed roads and strange detours that went in circles. We ended up circling the city four or five times before we got out of there. Lisa got kind of car sick from the whole ordeal and ended up puking when we got out of the car.
Road signs in Bristol kind of piss me off. The signs sneak up on you — you’ll be looking for a turn-off, and suddenly the sign and the exit appear together in an instant, and you have to slam on your brakes and almost kill yourself and everyone around you trying to make the turn. They never have street signs, and they never mark the road you’re on, and there’s no advance warning as to what streets are coming up. It was very frustrating.
Last night we stayed in Thornbury Castle, a real 16th-century castle which has been converted to a hotel. It’s pretty incredible; the rooms are very luxurious. I feel like the Pope here.